Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Your Diamond Jewelry Certificate

One of the most unique features of your diamond jewelry is the individual certificate of identity called the diamond grading certificate. Like people (and some pet animals), your stone’s authenticity and individuality is officially confirmed with this certificate.

This is actually a report given by an independent gemological laboratory. There are a number of gemological laboratories which hand out these certificates.

However, only a few are respected by the whole diamond industry. The most well-known are the European Gemological Laboratories (EGL) and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

Individual stones

Each diamond is unique. This individual evaluation is strictly for the diamond’s quality, not its value.

The certificate maps out inclusions (imperfections), which are hand-drawn. This authenticates the diamond’s unique identity, since no two stones are exactly alike.

Certificate details

The first information (alongside the issue date of the report) is the Stone ID. This is a unique number assigned to your diamond and registered in a global database.

Next listed is the diamond’s cut and shape. If the shape is different from the standard round brilliant, it is called a fancy shape.

The dimensions are listed down as “largest diameter – smallest diameter X depth” for the round shapes. The others are listed as “length X width X depth”.

The weight is listed in carats, the standard unit of weights used for gemstones. (One carat is 200 milligrams.)

The grain lines reflect irregularities in the crystal structure. These are reported as colorless, white, colored or reflective.

The angles and measurements of the diamond that determine its optical properties are duly noted. Table size, crown angle and pavilion depth affect the stone’s appearance.

The certificate indicates the thickness of the girdle (the outside edge of the stone) relative to the diamond’s size, and whether it is polished or faceted. 

The culet (the stone’s bottom point) is listed either faceted or not. If faceted, it is noted relative to the size of the stone.

The grades of the diamond’s finish and polish are noted and described including the symmetry. Color is graded, too, from D (colorless) all the way to Z (yellow).

Symmetry is the arrangement of the stone’s facets (surfaces) and finished angles. Grading reports describe them accordingly, whether they are excellent, very good, good, fair or poor.

The cut is listed as well as the quality of the stone’s clarity. The clarity is the absence of inclusions (blemishes) and graded from “flawless” to “included” based on the size, nature, position and quantity of the inclusions.

The certificate also notes the pavilion depth (distance from the girdle to the culet) which affects brilliance. Deviations from the Tolkowsky ideal cut are also carefully documented.

Most diamonds “fluoresce” (showing whitish, yellowish, or bluish tint) when exposed to ultraviolet light. They are only stated in the report, not graded.

Finally, there is a diagram on the certificate that approximates the shape and cut of the diamond. It has markings (in symbols) that include the type, nature, position, and approximate size of a clarity characteristic.

Gem quality

Coming from a leading gemological laboratory (the EGL mark appears under ultraviolet light), the certificate will ensure that your diamond jewelry has the quality you paid for. Do your diamonds have certificates?

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Tips On Buying Diamond Jewelry

Diamonds are known as the hardest stones and also a symbol of commitment and undying love. This is why it is commonly a preference for engagement rings to symbolize the strength of the relationship.  But the search for the perfect diamond jewelry may be overwhelming since there are too many choices, designs and sizes to choose from.  How do you get the right diamond jewelry? 

You start with the four Cs: cut, color, clarity and carat weight. Cut gives the diamond its brilliance since it is about the number of sides in a diamond. The color  is also another contributing factor to its cost, the colorless diamonds are more expensive and valuable.  Clarity would refer to the perfection of the diamond, if it has any kind of air bubbles, spots or marks.  Contrary to what most people think, carats are about the weight of the diamond and not its size.  Learning about the four Cs would help you fe determine the best diamond jewelry.

There are some useful tips which could help you in scouting the “right one.”

• Determine your budget. 

Whenever you are buying a gift, an engagement ring or anniversary present, always think about how much you are willing to spend for it.  Always think about what you can afford.  It is not a good idea to purchase something which would eventually cause you to run into major financial debts.

• Do some research. 

Internet websites are great sources of information when determining what kind of cut would be ideal.  You could start by researching different cuts and what is your preference.  It would also help you at least get a ballpark figure on how much it would cost.

• Consider the band, craftsmanship and the design.

Other than the stone, also consider the type of metal band used for a ring.  Aside from that you could also consider the design and the overall craftsmanship used to create the jewelry.  For rings, there are different metal bands, yellow or white gold, titanium or platinum.  Of course, one could be more affordable than the other, so you would like to know more about the metal bands when choosing a jewelry.

• Go to a trusted jeweller.

You could always ask for your family member’s and friend’s opinion about where to go and buy your diamond gift.  There are big and national chains while there are local jewellers who may be within your community for a significant period of time.  You could do some background check on the local jeweller.  You could always look for jewellers who are members of the American Gen Society and other similar reputable organizations.

• It’s not just the jewelry.

When buying diamond jewelry or any other precious jewelries, always check the return policy.  There are some retailers who would sell jewels at a low cost only to find out that they cannot be returned.  Aside from that, always make sure that the diamond you will be buying will have a lab grading report/certificate with it.

This certificate describes the quality of the purchased jewelry.  Also, there are some retailers who would require the customer to return all the documents and certificates provided along with the diamond jewelry.

The Worth of Diamond Jewelry

Many couples believe the diamond jewelry such as rings signify eternal love and the unbreakable bond of marriage that’s why more and more people are being meticulous about it. Of all the kinds of wedding and engagement jewelry available in the market today, one of the most popular and in demand is those with diamond.

Men say diamond jewelry are timeless because of its classic appeal while women agree that the simplicity and elegance of the diamond jewelry can complement any existing fashion sense out there.

When shopping for a diamond jewelry

Shopping for that diamond jewelry ring can be quite an adventure/misadventure if you don’t gear up for it. Here are some important details you must bear in mind to lessen the stress during that diamond jewelry "hunting day":

1. List down what are the qualities that you are looking for your diamond jewelry. Jotting down preferred cut, shape, metal, and cost can help you find that perfect diamond jewelry for purposes like an engagement ring for your fiancée or as a present to a person who is very important in your life.

2. Surf the net for the latest trends in diamond jewelry and designs. Diamond jewelry usually comes with many different beautiful styles, textures, shapes, and colors. Searching for different web sites in the Internet that feature such product will help you determine which ones are valuable. You might even buy online because countless unique collections of diamond jewelry out in the market are also featured there.

3. Examine the diamond jewelry closely. Since the jewelry will exalt the magnificence of the diamond itself, you should examine the stone closely. If you’re on a limited budget, you can purchase the best stone your money can afford and just choose a mount—metal—that is less expensive.

4. Consider the size of the diamond on the jewelry. Make sure that stone size of the diamond should reciprocate the size of the person you are giving it to. For instance, you are going to give diamond jewelry such as a ring to your ride. As a general rule, petite woman should wear smaller stones than those full-figured women.

5. Be creative and imaginative. Diamond jewelry itself is a traditional style but you can be creative and imaginative about it by experimenting in the shape of the stone and the color of the setting.

6. After choosing your stone and its shape, decide on the setting or the metal you want to use. Gold—either white or yellow—is the most common options but you can also choose platinum if you want to be different. The setting can be a four-prong setting that shows off the stone while the six-prong setting offers more of a security advantage.

7. Consider the cut you prefer. Aside from the size of the diamond stone, the cut or shape of your diamond jewelry can set it apart from the rest. The safest and most common cuts are round but you can also opt for princess solitaire or square cut stone, modern heart shape, pear or tear drop shape, oval shape, marquise shape, emerald cut, radiant shape, and asscher shape based on your personal taste.

Monday, December 6, 2010

The Shapes Of Your Diamond Jewelry

Diamonds in the rough are as ordinary as any regular stone, sometimes uglier. But once these are cut into shapes into the diamond jewelry that we are familiar with, the transformation is simply magical.

Diamonds are usually cut to accentuate their brilliance, fire and color.

Cuts

Diamonds are mostly cut into familiar round shapes (round brilliant cut). Those that are not are known as ‘fancy cuts’.

Fancy cuts are the baguette (like the French loaf of bread), the marquise, the princess (square), briolette (rose cut), and the pear cut.

Today, newer cuts are introduced into the industry, perhaps to liven it up. These include the ‘cushion’, the ‘radiant’ (like princess cuts, only with rounded edges), and the ‘Asscher’ cut (square emerald cut).

Fancy-colored diamonds are mostly cut in these new styles. However, these fancy cuts are not held to the strict standards of diamond cuts.

These precise standards were set by mathematician and gem enthusiast Marcel Tolkowsky. He calculated the exact angles and dimensions of the diamond’s facets (surfaces) to reflect the most light and gives the diamond its famed brilliance.  

Fashion

Like any other man-made ornament, diamond cuts are also heavily influenced by the fashion of the day. In the Art Deco period, the baguette (it accentuates a diamond’s luster but plays down the fire) was the favorite.

Today, the princess cut is gaining popularity, mostly among younger women. It is a favorite among diamond cutters because it uses most of the crystal in the original stone.

Since the past decades, there had been modifications of diamond cuts. These new cuts are seen to be more on trying to adapt a brand differentiation rather than actual improvements.

Shapes

The round diamond is the most popular today. It has 57 facets (or 58 including the culet). By far, it displays the most fire and scintillation among all.

Cut into a square with 90 degrees angle on each corner, the princess cut brings out a tremendous amount of brilliance, second only to the round.

Heart-shaped diamonds are the most sentimental of all. It is also the hardest to find.

Radiant diamonds are rectangles with rounded corners. What make it special are the patterns of the facets that makes it look like cracked ice.

Invented in the 60s, the oval diamond is similar to the round brilliant, except for the ovate shape. One can see a visible “bow-tie” on top.

Designed in 1902, the Asscher is often called the square emerald cut. It has cropped corners that give it a distinctive elegance.

The emerald cut, rectangular or square, has beveled corners. It has a window-like transparency giving it a classic beauty.

The marquise has 56 facets, elongated and has pointed ends. Reportedly, it had been inspired by the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour and created for Louis XIV.

The pear cut looks more like a teardrop. It shows off best as a pendant or on earrings.

The cushion cut or the candlelight has larger facets and rounded corners to increase their sparkle under candlelight.

The corners of a triangle diamond may be pointed or rounded. The body shape is defined by the cutter or the stone’s characteristics.

By far, one can see that the many shapes of diamond jewelry are all geared to accentuate the beauty of the stone, its own unique elegance. Which one would look best on you?

The Making Of Diamond Jewelry

In diamond jewelry, the cut is one characteristic considered to be the most important. With a good cut, the quality of the final gem can offset a lower color quality or a generally poorer clarity.

On the other hand, a D-color (a very high rating), Internally Flawless stone will not live up to its high promise if the cut is poor. The inferior quality of the cut would reduce all of the diamond’s brilliance, sparkle and scintillation. 

History

Ever since the beginning of diamond cutting in the mid-1300s, the techniques had evolved slowly through the years to what it is now today, which includes the use of lasers. It was in the 1600s when they found out that more facets meant more brilliance.

It was with the Single cut that the modern and popular Brilliant cut of today was founded. The modern round brilliant cut diamond had evolved into a round outline, symmetrical triangular and kite-shaped facets, a table and a small culet, which was optional.

Cutting

Diamond cutting, though done in around 5 basic steps, is actually a very long and intense process. For the layman, knowing the lengthy procedures would afford one to appreciate the work done.

Stone shapes

The natural shape of the original rough stone is the arbiter of the final shape of the finished diamond jewelry. Naturally oblong-shaped stones become marquises, ovals or pear shapes.

There might be near-perfect crystal shapes and they will more likely to become princess cuts or some other square cuts. Some large stones sometimes take a longer time to plan because of the fear of crystal wastage. They sometimes produce two gems out of one rough stone.

Planning

The first crucial step in making diamond jewelry is planning when the rough stones are being subjected to lengthy scrutiny. The planner (his only work) decides where to mark the stone to fashion out a profitable polished gem or gems.

Mistakes like incorrect markings and others can cost as high as thousands of dollars. The planner decides the size, clarity, and the direction of the crystal when marking. Cleaving in a wrong position can shatter a diamond stone and make it worthless. 

Cleaving or sawing

After the planner’s markings, the stone is either manually cleaved or sawed. The saw is a diamond-coated rotary one, or a laser.

Bruting.

Bruting is the process where the worked-on diamond is being spun on a rotating lathe and another diamond is forced against it to gradually form a rounded outline at first.

Polishing

This is the final stage of the cutting process where the diamond is given its finished proportions.

The first polishing stage is blocking. This establishes the diamond’s basic symmetry. It is here where the first 17 or 18 facets are made, creating a single cut. For very small diamonds, the process for them ends here.

‘Brillianteering’

The brillianteering stage is next for the larger diamonds where their final facets are polished. This will determine their brilliance and their fire, whether they will be dazzling beauties or dull stones.

For the cutter, the driving force is always to create a diamond jewelry masterpiece.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

The Anatomy Of Your Diamond Jewelry

Diamond jewelry had always been regarded to be on top of the list as the world’s most-desired gem, although a few would like to dispute it. Nevertheless, the diamond mystique still works its charms on people for them to want to own a piece, or at least to know more about it.

After centuries of fascinating stories and myths, here are the bare facts all about the world’s most wanted gem.

The bare essentials

Most people would certainly have heard about diamonds. They may have heard how precious they are as jewels. Some may have heard, too, random bits and pieces about the qualities that make them fascinating and attractive to people.

Let us take you to a short guided tour and introduce you to the essential parts (and other aspects) of a diamond for your information. It is then up to you to discover what make them special as gems.

Table
This is the first surface (surfaces in gems are called facets) that you will see. It is on top of the diamond, and is the largest area in the whole stone’s body.

Crown

This is the upper part of the diamond just above the girdle that includes the table and the bezel facets around. (The girdle is the outer edge of the diamond forming the stone’s total width around it.)

The crown slopes down to the girdle and this is called the crown angle. It passes and intersects the stone’s bezel facets. (The bezel is the metal holding the stone around the girdle.)

This crown angle helps in the dispersion of light, called fire, in a diamond. It also helps to enhance the diamond’s brilliance.

Girdle

As pointed out, this is the narrow band encircling the widest part of the diamond. This part of the stone is sometimes faceted (tiny polished surfaces) and some are not. Some jewelers have the diamond’s certificate number inscribed in laser on the girdle.

Pavilion

This is the bottom part of the diamond, essentially the facets just below the girdle, all leading to the culet. This is where lights come in and is reflected out of the stone’s table.

Culet

This is the pointed end at the bottom of the stone which may be faceted (a tiny polished surface at the endpoint) to protect from chipping.

In the early days, large faceted culets were common in diamonds, especially the Old European or Old Mine cuts. Modern diamonds have very small culets or none at all.

Other essentials

The above are only the basic physical parts of the diamond. But there are other considerations that make it the most-coveted stone today. This is where the other aspects of the stone would make it stand out and differ from the others.

Depth

This is the stone’s measurement from the culet to the table. The stone’s depth is responsible for the correct angling and height for light to enter and be reflected back to the viewer in a most fascinating manner.

These flashes of reflected light are commonly referred to as sparkle.  The intensity of this reflected bunch of light beams to the top of the diamond is called brilliance. When a diamond moves, there are flashes of color reflected from within, and it is called fire.

Symmetry

This is another important gauge in a diamond’s desirability because this is an indicator of the stone’s quality. Misalignments (facet angles, polish, lengths, etc) can diminish some of the diamond jewelry’s other near-perfect qualities.

Spotting The Faux Diamond Jewelry

It is important to understand or have a basic knowledge on differentiating a fake and a real diamond. This would make sure that you are not committing any kind of financial mistake or investment.  The best thing that you could do to check on the authenticity of your diamond jewelry is to take it to an independent and professional jeweller to get it appraised. 

However, there are simple things that could do that would help you make smart decisions when choosing your diamond jewelry.

• Making a good decision would rely on how educated you are.  Learn about diamonds or the 4 Cs of diamonds: color, cut, carat and clarity.  There are numerous websites that offer an insight on how you could determine the quality of a diamond based on the 4 Cs.

• Working with reputable and trusted jewellers would also make sure that you are not getting involved in any kind of fraudulent transactions.  It could be a those national and big chains or you could work with a local jeweller, what’s important is that you are working that already has an established reputation in the business.

• It always pay to ask the retailer.  There are some jewellers who would not offer information unless you ask them.  For example, you could ask the retailer if the diamond jewerly you are fancying is indeed jewelry or a similar stone called the moissanite. Ask questions about the stone or jewel.

• Settings would give you an insight if you are getting a true diamond. Since diamonds are expensive stones, it is normal that it would be mounted on a setting that would compliment its value.  If the setting is poorly crafted then it is likely that you are not getting a valuable stone.

• Some would say that fake diamonds sparkle like rainbows.  It is true.  A real diamond would give off shades of gray when sparkling.  Those that give rainbow shades are most likely copy cats.

• Another test that most buyers would do would be transparency test.  It could be done if you are buying loose diamond stones.  This would allow you to put the stone on top of a newspaper and check if you could see through it.  If you can then you could be dealing with a bogus stone, since diamonds would not properly disperse light.

• Diamonds are known to be one of the hardest stones out there.  So check if the diamond jewelry bears any kind of imperfection like scratches, nicks, etc.  Diamond jewelries are still capable of sustaining such defects, but too much scratches or imperfections could be suspicious.

• Diamond certificates are also another proof that the diamond jewels are for real.  A jeweller or a retailer would offer this certificate along with the purchase.  You could get a certificate from the GIA or EGL. 

However, fake diamonds are not always bad. You could get them affordably and almost has the same look as the real diamonds in untrained eyes.  Since it is more affordable, lost or damaged jewelries would be easier to replace. Aside from that any jewel, diamond or fake jewelry, cannot exceed the intention and sincerity of the person who will be giving it.